Wait 30 seconds for the programming cycle and programming mode to close. The security light should extinguish and then commence to blink regularly.ĥ. After security light goes off remove third key from ignition. Insert third transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. Security light should remain on indicating you're still in programming mode.Ĥ. After 3-5 seconds remove the second key from ignition. The Security light may blink indicating it has accepted the key. Insert the second transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. Security light should remain on indicating you're still in programming mode.ģ. After 3-5 seconds remove the first key from the ignition. Insert the first transponder key into ignition lock cylinder for registration DO NOT TURN ON. The security light should illuminate and remain on.Ģ. Briefly insert any key into ignition lock cylinder and remove immediately. When reconnected to the car, the ECU will be in auto-programming mode and will accept new keys as per the procedure below:ġ. Here’s the setup, with the computer connected to the ECU via the EEPROM circuit on a prototype breadboard. If you do have problems reading and writing from the chip, you have to short the crystal on the board. However the clip doesn’t have a good grip on the SMD chip so I chose to solder wires directly to the leads of the chip. Using a test clip helped a lot during prototyping. Note: This is the same circuit for programming the odometer’s EEPROM: To connect the 8-pin EEPROM chip to the computer you'll either have to solder hook-up wires to the pins or get a Test Clip for onboard programming. The components required are fairly basic, three 4.7K ohm resistors, three 5V zener diodes, and a computer with a serial port. In my case, I made my own, using this EEPROM circuit. You can either buy a USB programmer from eBay or make your own to communicate to the serial port. This is where you need to get a programmer to connect the chip to your PC.
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